Browsing articles in "Affordable Kitchen Cabinets Charlotte"
Aug 14, 2017
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What Type of Cabinets to Choose?

Kitchen cabinets are the most important kitchen accessories. Can you imagine a kitchen without cabinets? This would certainly be a lot awkward. There are plenty of things you need to store in the kitchen for which cabinets are needed. You need to store dishes, containers, jars, cutlery and appliances that you use too. Furthermore, you need the cabinets to store the species and salts too. You cannot just place them on all on the shelves.

Kitchen cabinets can change the whole look of the kitchen. They come in a number of different styles. So much variety is available these days that it can become hard for one to select the right one. A cluttered kitchen surely does not look good so getting the right cabinets that could make the kitchen look amazing matters a lot.

There is a problem. Not many of the homeowners realize what they are purchasing. They just buy the cabinets by going for the looks. When you go shop for the cabinets, there are some tips you need to keep in mind so that you could get the best ones. Here are the tips: Continue reading »

Aug 12, 2017
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Installing Kitchen Cabinets

Installing cabinets whether in a kitchen, laundry or utility cabinets in a garage, they all have the same basic set of installation requirements. Some simple tools are required and are in most handyman’s tool pails. Pencils, good carpenters four foot level, tape measure, screw gun, several Quick type C clamps and a chalk line is a great start. If you have the use of a tripod with a builders level (or can rent one for a day) this will speed the work along greatly. Starting at either end of the cabinet set, make a pencil mark four feet above the floor. Now using the four foot level, transfer that mark along the wall to the other end of the cabinet run and make another pencil mark. Measure down to the floor to see if it is four feet above the floor. If it is exactly four feet, then your floor is level. If it is more than four feet then you know the floor slopes down towards that end. If you start the cabinets at that low end you will not be able to keep the cabinets level before you run “into ” the floor. If you start at the four foot end that you started with, you will be able to shim the cabinets up so they all remain the same level height above the floor.

If your cabinets have whats called a four inch high toe kick feature, you may have the option of cutting this four inch height down to offset a small difference in the floor heights. Be careful as cutting too much can make the cabinets look squat. If the cabinets came with a detached set of toe kicks already framed, this makes leveling a great deal easier as well. Just lay out the base cabinet supports and check to see if they are level. Some shimming or minor cutting to provide perfectly sub-base’s makes the base cabinet installation a snap. You need not worry whether each cabinet is level as the bases will automatically make it so.

Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.

This way you will not be searching for a stud while standing on a ladder and balancing a cabinet.

It is a few minutes work well spent. Next remove all cabinet doors marking each one is marked as to which cabinets they belong too.

If you are working alone, take a piece of one by two inch furring and screw it to the wall flush with the bottom of the upper cabinet mark. You will be able to rest the cabinet on the furring while you plumb the cabinet and fasten it to the wall. Starting with the first cabinet, go ahead and screw the cabinet securely to the studs using three inch drywall screws. You can countersink them or course or use screw washers depending on what you want the final appearance to be.

Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.

With the upper cabinets mounted go ahead and install the base cabinets in the exact same way. Each cabinet screwed side to side and then to the wall. Once all cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your counter tops. Back splash work, electrical connections for micro waves or exhaust hoods and their actual installations should all be done before the doors are re-installed. You want to handle the doors gently as they are the major amount of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls and your done.

Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work as in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electrical, perhaps heating and possible structural changes as well. A garage set of work storage cabinets may not involve any of these items but be safe and ask first.

Pete Ackerson
Your Friendly Building Inspector
http://www.Wagsys.com
BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System software

Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Peter_Ackerson/618010

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Aug 11, 2017
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Choosing Kitchen Cabinets

Whenever you need to make a major purchase if you are budget-conscious — by choice or by necessity, the best (I would say, only) place to start is by accumulating as much information as you can about the available possibilities. When buying cabinets, an extremely important consideration is to be sure that the measurements you are working with of the involved area(s) are accurate. You certainly do not want to learn too late that your cabinet choices and/or the resulting layout of them might have better met your needs.

In straight-run base-cabinets, one consideration that should be a priority is, if at all possible, to include “roll-outs” (variably called roll-out shelves, trays, etc.) factory-installed inside them; this is because “roll-outs” provide much better accessibility to items stored there (but, if your budget will only allow one roll-out per cabinet, be sure to place it on the cabinet’s bottom level). But, in case you happen to not be replacing perfectly fine base cabinets which do not have “roll-outs”, all is not lost; that advantage can be added later via “inserts”. And, if you are then unable to find “inserts” from a manufacturer, they can be self-built and installed.

If you are remodeling your kitchen (or building anew), you may need to choose a corner cabinet although not all kitchens need them.For example, a “galley” kitchen is called that because the walls (holding cabinets and appliances) that make up the kitchen face each other and, therefore, preclude the need for corner cabinets. Another possible arrangement in this vein would be an “L-shaped” kitchen with a straight-run of cabinets along one wall and another straight-run of cabinets on a wall that is perpendicular to it but separated from it by a doorway or floor-to-ceiling window. Cabinets installed in a straight run do not pose the variety of choices that corner cabinets do; therefore, if your new kitchen, bathroom, or office needs a corner cabinet, having a list of the types of corner cabinets currently available should help you make an educated choice in their shape and size.

Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach – this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves “pie-cut” to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach — this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinet’s shorter leg); (3) the revolving — this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front — this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind — this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its “buried” shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the “blind” corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an “L-shaped” cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink — a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinet’s side.

Wall corner cabinets include: (1) the diagonal-front — this cabinet has a modified pentagon shape (this is the one most frequently chosen for this position); (2) the easy reach — this cabinet appears to be two adjoining wall cabinets (it has a center hinge to allow opening the first door or both and allows direct access to the contents on the shelves); and the blind — half of this cabinet is buried in the corner itself and can be accessed only by the front door of the cabinet — this cabinet is the unfortunate choice in instances where structure or an appliance allows no other option.

In conclusion then, when choosing cabinets in general and wall or base corner cabinets in particular, your best choices will depend on the size and shape of available space, your budget and the items that you plan to store there. Additionally, you really should make every effort to: (a) be as fully informed as possible about your cabinet options and (b) carefully review all of your decisions before ordering any cabinets — whether or not you have bottomless pockets.

[http://www.accessdesignconnections.com]

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