Jan 22, 2015
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Top 10 Things to Know about Kitchen Cabinets

1. It is always best to start your search by looking for products that are certified by the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association which subject the cabinets to tests that replicate years of normal abuse. Certified cabinets must be able to withstand exposure to humidity, temperatures ranging from -5 degrees to 120 degree Fahrenheit and are subjected to normal everyday condiments such as vinegar, coffee, and ketchup without blistering or showing any signs of discoloration.

2. It is important to know the kitchen cabinet language. The most important is knowing that stock and and semi_stock cabinets are the most popular types available on the market. Stock cabinets is by far the leader because of it’s very low price tag, availability, and never ending supply of accessories and hardware to make your cabinets more personal. Semi-Stock cabinets offer a much larger range of sizes, finishes, and styles. The obvious highest end cabinets are custom made to just about whatever look or function you want to obtain. However, the average time to complete these custom cabinets is 12 weeks and can run in price anywhere from $12,000-$75,000 depending on the amount of cabinets ordered,detail,features, and material used in their construction.

3. I believe that it is important to put your own touch into your kitchen, and keep in mind exactly what function it will serve. Most cabinets offer user friendly options such as full extension roll out shelves so you don’t bang your hand as you reach for that can of tomato sauce that is buried deep in the back. Large drawers in the base can hold pots, pans, and other large cooking utensils which will stop you from having to store your pots and pans in the oven like I have seen many clients do.

4. I also believe that besides functionality it is equally important that you choose the correct look. Light colored woods like oak and maple make your kitchen seem brighter and larger. Where as darker woods like cherry and mahogany create a more dramatic effect. To give cabinets less visual heft, most manufacturers offer turned leg pieces that mimic the look of furniture. Also trim kits for appliances will help pull a kitchen together visually.

5. Make it a must to know exactly what your cabinetry is made of. The box is the cabinets backbone, the stronger the better. I prefer heavy boxes with at least a 1/2 inch thick walls or structural support that can be attached to wall studs with screws. Most cabinets today are made from MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) or OSB ( Oriented Strand Board), but my favorite is plywood with dado or mortise joints and metal or wood corner braces with the drawer boxes being made of dovetail joints. These are only found is custom cabinets and will normally cost quite a bit more than cabinets from a big box store, but the old saying is in it’s truest form in this case, “You get what you pay for”.

6. Think ahead for repair and fixes sometime down the road by purchasing a repair kit before you leave the store with your new cabinets. A normal repair kit should contain items like colored wax, putty, or markers to cover set nails or repair dings or scratches. I always suggest buying a few extra hinges and drawer slides because these are the items that seem to go first.

7. Don’t screw yourself. If you are installing the cabinets yourself make sure you use 2 1/2 inch deck screws, because drywall screws will snap under a heavy load of the upper cabinets. And always make sure you screw your cabinets in to studs which are normally 16-18 inches apart in your wall. Sometimes it is best to hire a professional for installation because they might have to cut open the wall and make a support brace to support your cabinets. I can’t tell you how many times people called us asking us to help them after they installed the cabinets themselves or hired handyman Harry to hang them only to have then come crashing down ruining their counter, the cabinets and contents, and more than likely the wall.

8. If you are still hell bent on doing it yourself I suggest you screw a 1X3 cleat just below the bottom of your wall cabinets which should have a line. This will help support the their weight while you install the cabinetry. This hob normally requires 2 people when possible, but wall cabinets can be installed properly if you use cabinet jacks.

9. Always make sure your cabinets are flush and plumb. I normally attach a line of cabinets together using C clamps on the floor followed by wood screws and then lift the cabinets as one whole unit which makes it easier to install and make sure you are level.

10. If either you or a professional company are replacing your current cabinets do not just rip them down or let others do that because you can receive a tax write off by donating them to such charities as habitat for humanity and similar organizations that will help give your old cabinets a new life while getting you a nice write off and helping the less fortunate.

[http://www.ezfurnitureassembly.com]

[http://www.nychandyman.biz]

Our company begun assembling & installing kitchen cabinetry about 18 months ago, and since then have installed hundreds of cabinets and learned a great amount of wealthy information we believe is a must for anyone buying and installing their own cabinets or having them professionally installed.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Purnell

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/964533

Jan 21, 2015
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How to Choose the Right Kitchen Cabinet

Whenever you need to make a major purchase if you are budget-conscious — by choice or by necessity, the best (I would say, only) place to start is by accumulating as much information as you can about the available possibilities. When buying cabinets, an extremely important consideration is to be sure that the measurements you are working with of the involved area(s) are accurate. You certainly do not want to learn too late that your cabinet choices and/or the resulting layout of them might have better met your needs.

In straight-run base-cabinets, one consideration that should be a priority is, if at all possible, to include “roll-outs” (variably called roll-out shelves, trays, etc.) factory-installed inside them; this is because “roll-outs” provide much better accessibility to items stored there (but, if your budget will only allow one roll-out per cabinet, be sure to place it on the cabinet’s bottom level). But, in case you happen to not be replacing perfectly fine base cabinets which do not have “roll-outs”, all is not lost; that advantage can be added later via “inserts”. And, if you are then unable to find “inserts” from a manufacturer, they can be self-built and installed.

If you are remodeling your kitchen (or building anew), you may need to choose a corner cabinet although not all kitchens need them.For example, a “galley” kitchen is called that because the walls (holding cabinets and appliances) that make up the kitchen face each other and, therefore, preclude the need for corner cabinets. Another possible arrangement in this vein would be an “L-shaped” kitchen with a straight-run of cabinets along one wall and another straight-run of cabinets on a wall that is perpendicular to it but separated from it by a doorway or floor-to-ceiling window. Cabinets installed in a straight run do not pose the variety of choices that corner cabinets do; therefore, if your new kitchen, bathroom, or office needs a corner cabinet, having a list of the types of corner cabinets currently available should help you make an educated choice in their shape and size.

Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach – this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves “pie-cut” to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach — this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinet’s shorter leg); (3) the revolving — this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front — this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind — this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its “buried” shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the “blind” corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an “L-shaped” cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink — a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinet’s side.

Wall corner cabinets include: (1) the diagonal-front — this cabinet has a modified pentagon shape (this is the one most frequently chosen for this position); (2) the easy reach — this cabinet appears to be two adjoining wall cabinets (it has a center hinge to allow opening the first door or both and allows direct access to the contents on the shelves); and the blind — half of this cabinet is buried in the corner itself and can be accessed only by the front door of the cabinet — this cabinet is the unfortunate choice in instances where structure or an appliance allows no other option.

In conclusion then, when choosing cabinets in general and wall or base corner cabinets in particular, your best choices will depend on the size and shape of available space, your budget and the items that you plan to store there. Additionally, you really should make every effort to: (a) be as fully informed as possible about your cabinet options and (b) carefully review all of your decisions before ordering any cabinets — whether or not you have bottomless pockets.

[http://www.accessdesignconnections.com]

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alice_Merkel

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6912836

Jan 16, 2015
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Quality Cabinets can come Fast

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LKN Cabinets and Remodeling — is a locally owned and operated kitchen and bath remodeling dealer specializing in affordable quality cabinets.

We have an unbelievable pricing on several stocked cabinetry lines many which are stocked locally. The cabinets feature allwood construction (meaning no particleboard) … they are all plywood cabinets with either birch or maple doors. These are top of the line cabinets stored and ready for immediate shipment. This means cabinets can be delivered usually in 2 weeks or less anywhere in the greater Charlotte area! Pricing is normally 50% off what big box stores would charge you for comparable cabinetry. For a 10 ft x 10 ft kitchen of our nicest ‘warehoused’ stocked cabinet price would start at average $2,959 for cabinetry with installation and other services being extra. Pictures below are just some of the cabinets you could get.

Please see our website for more info http://www.LKNcabinets.com or call Brian at 704-232-5169 for an appointment or just a question

  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
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