There’s no getting around the fact that a tile floor looks gorgeous in almost any bathroom. They are durable, practical, attractive, and when done tastefully and carefully, they will survive numerous bathroom remodels. If you haven’t thought about putting one in because they’re cold on bare feet during the winter, you can solve that problem by putting heating elements down first before laying your tile. No matter how you go about it, though, you’re going to add a lot of class to any bathroom by laying a tile bathroom floor.

You may have some problems deciding on the type of tile you want. After all, there are hundreds of different tiles made of many materials in a variety of sizes, colors, textures, and designs. It may seem like a daunting task to select the ones that are going to be just right in your own home. There are some resources you can use, though, in selecting your floor tiles. One is to go to a home improvement store and look at the displays that have been set up in the store. These will give you some ideas of different ways stock tiles can be laid and what they will look like when they are.

A second option is to browse through the racks of sample tiles, looking at the pictures of floors that others have laid using them. Most stores employ a decorator who will be able to help you make the right choices. Be sure to take samples of your paint color with you in order to match your tiles to the room. Choosing blue tiles to go in your blue bathroom may only result in a clash of two totally different shades. This person will ask you questions about your room and your personal preferences before making suggestions.

It’s also a good idea to spend some time looking at photos of tile floors online, because you will get a lot of ideas there. There may well be one picture of a floor that will catch both your eye and your imagination. Laying a tile bathroom floor is something that is going to result in making you happy every time you look at it for many years to come.

Now that you have your new kitchen cabinets, you are ready to move on to the next big step…..Installing your kitchen cabinets. While the actual installation of the Kitchen Cabinets isn’tall that hard, the critical first step is measuring and marking out where the cabinets will go. By placing layout markings on the walls and floors, it will not only help you with kitchen cabinet placement and stud locations, but it will also help you locate where adjustments and shims will be required. Before we get started there are a couple of items that you will need for the project:

Pencil

Level or Laser Level

Drill

Tape Measure

Stud Finder

Clamps

1″ x 3″ Piece of lumber (6′-8′ in length) or an Inverted U-shaped frame (see notes below)

Shims

Screws (long enough to go 1 1/2 into the studs)

Utility knife or chisel

Marking Compass

An extra set of hands (you may have to bribe one of your friends)

As I mentioned above, you have the option of using a piece of 1′ x 3′ lumber for the installation or building a frame to support the cabinets (I have included a picture of a sample frame below). This can be made out of 2′ x 4’s and should be tall enough to support the bottom of your wall cabinets. If you plan on installing more than one kitchen, then I would suggest the frame, but a piece of lumber will do just fine if this is a one time event. In either case, you will need another set of hands to help with the installation.

In this case we bought (RTA) Ready-To-Assemble Kitchen Cabinets from RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. Now the kitchen cabinets are assembled, we are ready to start marking out our layout lines. Some people start with the base cabinets, but we are going to start with the wall cabinets first. There is no right or wrong way to start, I just prefer to start with the upper cabinets first.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line, to the floor, and find the floors high point (if it has one), and mark a line at that point. From that high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top of the base cabinets.

2. Now that you have the top of the base cabinets marked, measure up another 19 1/2 inches and a level line across the wall to indicate the bottom of the wall cabinets. Lightly mark each cabinets’ dimensions and placement on the wall to make sure that your original layout is correct.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Use a pencil to mark the stud locations at least 6 inches above and below the line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and bottom marks to indicate the center of the studs.

4. If you decided to go with the piece of 1′ x 3′ lumber, now is where you will use (if you decided to go with the U-shaped frame, it will come into play after all your lines are laid out). Screw a temporary 1′ x 3′ support rail to the wall, aligning the top edge of the rail with the line for the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving 3 or 4 two inch screws through the rail into the wall studs.

5. Now that we have all the lines marked, it is time to start installing your kitchen cabinets. We are going to start with the corner cabinet (here is where your helper’s extra set of hands will be needed). Place the corner cabinet onto the temporary support rail and have your helper hold the corner cabinet in place. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its support rail and into the wall studs. Screw the cabinet into the wall using two screws that are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches. Check the top of the cabinet for level and the front of the cabinet for plumb. If you have to correct the position, just back the screws out a little bit and top shims behind the cabinet at the stud locations. If it is plumb and level, drive the screws all the way in and add several more into each stud to ensure that the cabinet is secured tightly to the wall.

6. Now we are going to move onto the cabinets on either side of the corner cabinet. As you install each one, use the clamps to secure each cabinet to the neighboring cabinet and then check it for plumb with your level. On faceframe cabinets, it is a good idea to drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes through the sides of the faceframe and use screws. In this case, with frameless, ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets we are going to screw thru the plywood sides and use shims in between the cabinets to ensure a tight fit and make sure that the cabinet faces are plumb.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base case cabinet. Use shims where needed to level the cabinet and raise it up to the line which indicates the high point of the floor. Be sure it is level from front to back and from side to side, then screw it to the wall studs. If you don’t have a diagonal corner cabinet or blind base cabinet in the corner, push the adjoining cabinet into place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow the doors and drawers enough clearance to open and close properly. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and level.

8. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this manner, joining them the same way you connected the wall cabinets in step 6.

9. If your cabinets end up butting against another wall, you may need a filler strip to make up the last few inches. If you have custom cabinets, they should have been built to fill this gap, but if you are using stock or RTA Kitchen Cabinets the filler strip may be needed. If you do need to use a filler strip, leave the last cabinet detached from the other cabinets. Clamp a straightedge to the face of the nearest installed unit, extending far enough for you to put alignment marks on the end wall. Allow a 3/4″ offset behind those marks (for the thickness of the filler piece) and fasten a cleat to the wall. Then install and fasten the last cabinet and measure the gap between its face frame and the wall.

If the wall is flat, simply rip the filler board to the required width and fasten it in place. If the wall is irregular, you’ll have to scribe-fit the filler board. Start by setting a marking compass to the width of the gap, then place a strip of 1″-wide masking tape along the filler board in the area where it needs to be trimmed. Clamp the board to the end cabinet’s face frame, then trace the wall contour with the compass. Remove the board and cut along the scribe line with a jig saw, then reinstall it to check the fit. When it’s right, drive screws through the adjacent face frame into the edge of the filler board. Screw or nail the other side to the cleat.

At this point, your kitchen cabinet installation is complete. If you purchased matching crown molding or any other details, these should be easily installed now. Depending on whether you had to use shims under the base cabinets, you may have to install some trim pieces by the toe kicks to cover up the shims or any gaps at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets.

I hope this helps make your kitchen cabinet installation as smooth as possible. If you need any help with cabinet selection, kitchen layout tips, or ideas for cabinet styles, check out RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store

The process of choosing kitchen cabinets is one that takes a little research and planning. For some help in those areas there are many remodeling books and home magazines available. These can be purchased or found in the library. The pictures offer a great look at what the cabinets look like in a finished setting. If there is something in one of the books or magazines that catches the eye, there is usually information on where it can be picked up.

An estimated budget has to be determined for the overall remodeling project. Cabinets will cost an unbelievable half of that budget. This will include the labor to install them. The cabinets can then be chosen as in stock, custom or semi custom. Knowing this ahead of time will reduce the chance of going way over budget.

The in stock cabinets come in fixed sizes and a limited number of styles and finishes. Due to the lack of ability to customize, these are the cheapest cabinets available. This does not mean that these are cheaply made. On the contrary, there are many high quality in stock cabinets. The semi custom, offer more flexibility to fit a kitchen and its owners preferences. Custom cabinets offer unlimited choices and are made by a cabinet maker from start to finish.

The kind of material will need to be chosen. This may be based on the type of kitchen and the lifestyle of the owner. If there are children in the home it may be a good idea to go with something that is easy to clean. The laminate and stainless steel cabinets fit the bill. The laminate cabinets also come in any number of colors. Wood cabinets come in various finishes and are able to be painted as well.

There are so many kinds of wood that are used for cabinetry. Those that are typically used are pine, maple, cherry, birch, mahogany and oak. Oak is the most popular for its color. For those looking for a green option there are cabinets available in bamboo, an easily sustainable wood. The darker woods of walnut and ebony are beautiful and expensive. These are usually purely custom cabinet material.

Cabinet accessories can be used to give a kitchen a customized feel. The door pulls do not have to be the traditional smooth metal type. They also come in granite, bronze, ceramic and glass. Some are hand-made or hand-painted. They are in many shapes, finishes and sizes. Inside the cabinets, a Lazy Susan, fully extendable drawers, drawer inserts and organizers all make them more convenient to use.

With all the above in mind, making a choice for kitchen cabinets will be focused if not simplified. Remember to do the necessary research and to stay within the budget. It may be good to keep an eye out for any close out sales or auctions. A better quality cabinet could be available for a lower price.